Welcome to Email News: The fight to save Dulan’s on Crenshaw

August 30, 2025 | View in browser

Owner Greg Dulan inside his Los Angeles soul food restaurant Dulan's on Crenshaw.

By Laurie Ochoa

The fight to save Dulan's on Crenshaw ... Jenn Harris' immersion into Nobu Los Angeles vibes ... the post-fire rebirth of Altadena's Bernee as Betsy ... plus a new restaurant with no-tip, no-fee, no-surprises menu pricing and more. I'm Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week's Tasting Notes.

Saving L.A. soul food

On May 26, 1978, at 4:45 a.m., Adolf Dulan took out a black marker and yellow legal pad. The future "king of soul food," who a few years later would open the Southern food mecca Aunt Kizzy's Back Porch, noted the date and time in the upper right-hand corner and wrote across the top sheet in capital letters: "GREG."

Then, itemizing each point in Roman numerals and underlining key words twice, the late social worker-turned-entrepreneur, who started out with an Orange Julius franchise and had at that point opened his first independent restaurant, Hamburger City, wrote instructions to his eldest son, Greg Dulan, on running a business.

One of Adolf Dulan's five guidelines: "Find out [the] cost of each item you sell and how much profit it brings in — determine if you need to drop or add items to be sold."

At the bottom of the second sheet of paper, taped to the first sheet to form a scroll-like document, Adolf Dulan wrote this directive to his son: "If you are ever going to be a business man, this will be your bible to use ... [for] 'making the nut.' "

One piece of advice the elder Dulan didn't pass on to his son: Don't let a parking lot deal take you down.

Earlier this week Greg Dulan, who in 1992 opened his own successful soul food restaurant, Dulan's on Crenshaw — years before his father started Dulan's Soul Food Kitchen — posted a call on social media for help from the community.

"I bought some adjacent real estate with the goal of building parking for the restaurant and a culinary kitchen for training and workforce development," he said on a video collaboration with radio station KJLH. "The real estate portion is dragging down the restaurant. The restaurant is doing great but the overall business is in trouble and maybe won't survive unless I get some kind of support."

On a fundraising page put up by the nonprofit civic and public arts organization Destination Crenshaw, the situation for the restaurant, which reopened early last year after a two-year renovation, was presented as dire: "With foreclosure looming on September 6," read the plea, "time is measured in days, not weeks."

During a phone interview on Friday afternoon, however, Greg Dulan wanted to make one thing clear: "I'm going to be here." There's no way, he insisted, that he's giving up on his restaurant without a fight.

"It's more of a real estate issue than a restaurant issue," he said. "The remodel took longer than I expected, and it went over budget. It ate up a lot of my reserve capital."

Redevelopment along the Crenshaw corridor, which prompted Dulan's renovation, also put pressure on the restaurant. "We lost a lot of parking," Dulan said. "The density on Crenshaw has been increased."

He added valet parking to help relieve the pressure but hasn't had the money to build a proper parking lot for the restaurant. Earlier this year, however, he started using the production kitchen on one of the two lots he bought to prepare heat-and-serve meals for Vallarta supermarket's Hyde Park location and hopes to expand that operation.

The problem is that he took out a hard-money loan to fund the business and now a big balloon payment is due. "Sept. 6," he said, "is the deadline for me to satisfy my loan obligation or refinance." He's hoping to avoid selling the two parcels he bought or even the land with the restaurant itself, but if he is forced to sell he says he would find a way to keep the restaurant going.

"I can run a successful restaurant," Dulan said over the phone, "but real estate development is a whole different animal."

Since the word went out that Dulan's was in trouble, many people have responded with offers to help the restaurant, a soul food fixture for more than 30 years. "We're getting calls from a lot of celebrities and people from the community," he said. "Revenue is up 40% at the restaurant."

Whether these offers will lead to a solution for Dulan's money troubles is still uncertain, but for Los Angeles soul food lovers, the remodel has been a success. Dulan's refurbished patio area has become a popular gathering spot for family parties, political events and even yoga classes. And his fried chicken is still some of the best in the city.

"I had no idea that that my little soul food restaurant would go viral," Dulan said of the community response, "but apparently we built up a lot of goodwill that I underestimated."

Vibes and miso cod at Nobu Los Angeles

Nobu Los Angeles, "which opened in 2008, several years after its more famous Malibu cousin," writes columnist Jenn Harris, "is somewhat of a hidden gem on a stretch of La Cienega Boulevard, where black cars once swarmed its valet stand and reservations were elusive. Now ... weeknight dinner reservations are procured with ease." Though it "still vibrates with a current of money, celebrity and those who seek it," Nobu L.A., Harris says, "suffers from the aesthetic malaise of an Asian-themed chain restaurant in the mid-2000s ... The menu, for the most part, is ... past its prime even if everyone (this writer included) still loves the black cod with miso."

With a new chef at the helm of Nobu Los Angeles and a Netflix documentary on founder Nobu Matsuhisa released this summer, Harris tries to determine the value of the younger restaurant, up the road from the original Matsuhisa, which after nearly 40 years, she writes, has "exemplary" nigiri. Can Nobu L.A. "continue to thrive on vibes"?

Post-fire rebirth

I was one of the few who was able to eat at the ambitious Altadena restaurant Bernee in the single month it was open before the Eaton fire destroyed much of the neighborhood around it. The restaurant, which was saved from the flames, was one of the spots that had been attracting diners from all over Los Angeles to the neighborhood. After the fire, chef Tyler Wells — who lost his home and was in the process of separating from his wife and restaurant partner, Ashley — thought he might leave the state and start over. But as Food's Stephanie Brejo writes, Wells was drawn back to Altadena and is reopening the restaurant this weekend with a new name, Betsy, in honor of his late mother. Breijo's story has all the details of Wells' post-fire journey.

And if you missed it, Breijo also talked with Anajak Thai's Justin Pichetrungsi last week about the two-month renovation of his family's restaurant, which has reopened. "The hardest part of the business is the organization part, not the innovation," he told Breijo. "Innovation is so fun.... But with all the behind-the-scenes stuff, people never saw how broken [the restaurant] was in order to make the show go on." I can't wait to check out the new show.

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'Instant-izing' food

Imagine "nearly every conceivable dish" ... "turned into a packaged meal," even "fried rice that you squeeze out of a tube," writes Times Seoul correspondent Max Kim. "These have turned convenience stores into a $25-billion industry in South Korea and those food products are churned out at a staggering pace: up to 70 new food items hit the shelves each week, effectively offering a live feed of South Korean tastes."

"In South Korea's food retail market," convenience store critic Chae Da-in tells Kim, "you go extinct if you're not quick to change."

Cooling down

For these sweltering days, contributor Carolynn Carreño wrote about the refreshing Mexican water cocktail suero. It's made with lime, sparkling water and lots of ice, then served in a salt-rimmed glass. She also includes two other cooling drink recipes, including IPA-Lada Michelada from the much-missed Whittier restaurant Colonia Publica and Salty Angeleno Micheladas, developed in our Times Test Kitchen using our own L.A. Times Salty Angeleno blend developed in collaboration with Burlap & Barrel. Salty Angeleno and our other spice blends, California Heat and L.A. Asada, are available online at Burlap & Barrel.

In the kitchen

Black Pot Supper Club chef and founder Martin Draluck, who was featured in the Netflix documentary series "High on the Hog" on Black food traditions, came to the Times Test Kitchen recently for our "Chef That!" video series. Watch him make sweet potato chili with a secret ingredient — a tab of Abuelita chocolate. As deputy food editor Betty Hallock writes, it "gives the chili a mole-reminiscent richness." The vegetarian chili, she adds, "comes together in under an hour. Find the recipe here.

And if you missed last week's "Chef That!" episode, you can watch Adrian Forte, the cookbook author of "Yawd" and chef at Sam Jordan's modern Caribbean restaurant Lucia, make easy fried plantains with Scotch Bonnet aioli. Get the 30-minute recipe here.

Early bird tickets

VIP tickets (allowing early entry) to The Times' Food Bowl Night Market, presented by Square, are already sold out for the Saturday-night session taking place Oct. 11 at City Market Social House in downtown L.A. But Friday-night VIP tickets are still available and for early birds, there is a "date night deal" with two general admission tickets available for $199, a savings of about 20%. More than 40 restaurants are participating, including Holbox, Baroo, the Brothers Sushi, OyBar, Heritage Barbecue, Crudo e Nudo, Hummingbird Ceviche House, Rossoblu, Perilla LA, Evil Cooks, Villa's Tacos, Holy Basil and Luv2Eat Thai Bistro. Check lafoodbowl.com for tickets and info.

Also ...

Latte art "throwdowns, special menus, omakases, pop-ups, speakeasies and out-of-the-box events are part of L.A.'s growing underground coffee scene," writes contributor Julie Wolfson in her guide to 9 places to check out IYKYK coffee events. Kumquat, Be Bright, York Manor Market, the Pasadena branch of Woon, Mandarin and Picaresca Barra de Café are some of places that host the events. Of course, if you don't want to wait for a special event to immerse yourself in coffee geekdom, Jack Benchakul is almost always pouring and, as restaurant critic Bill Addison described a while back, talking water alkalinity at Endorffeine in Chinatown.
"The American beverage firm Keurig Dr Pepper," reports the business section's Caroline Petrow-Cohen, plans to buy JDE Peet's, the European parent company of California's gourmet coffee trailblazer, Peet's Coffee, in an all-cash transaction worth about $18 billion." Note that JDE Peet's also owns Stumptown.
Cracker Barrel is keeping its old-time logo after a new design elicited an uproar, reports Dee-Ann Durbin.
Durbin also breaks down the rise of Starbucks' pumpkin spice latte business, by the numbers.
And here's a restaurant model to watch: San Francisco's soon-to-open 14-seat counter spot La Cigale from chef-owner Joseph Magidow is instituting all-inclusive pricing with no additional tax, tip or service fees. "When the bill arrives, there will be no surprises," reports the San Francisco Chronicle's Elena Kadvany. "The price on the set menu — $140 — is exactly what diners pay."